[Kaohsiung, Taiwan] - 牛老二牛肉麵店 (興中店)
Almost ten years ago, my uncles talked about this fantastic beef noodle soup restaurant as we were driving to Kaohsiung. During that drive, they discussed the pickled veggies, how they were the best at any beef noodle restaurant. They were so good that people would use up the entire container, so they added so many chilies to it that people would have no choice but to limit their quantities. What can we do to make those pickled veggies more edible? It wasn't that the chilies are bad, they are just too spicy for normal people. My uncles aren't normal. They are descended from my Szechuanese grandparents and are no strangers to fire. That's how hot these chilies are.
I was in my mid twenties at the time, but I felt like a little kid. That's how much anticipation built up while they discussed their eating strategy. Plus, beef noodles have always been my favorite thing to eat. They park in the lot next to 85 Sky Tower and I make a mental note of our path from that parking lot is to the restaurant. I followed along the 3 blocks. At the restaurant, my uncles order for all of us before we sit down and grab a few of the small dishes for us to start on. I am immediately told to slow down on the small dishes to save my stomach for the beef noodles. I look around at the other people eating; the bowl looks small but I set my chopsticks down to avoid any more reprimands.
When the bowl arrives maybe a minute later, it's so small and cute. My uncles ordered the dry beef noodles, so the soup is served on the side. It's my first time having it. I always enjoy ordering it with soup. Either way, it's delicious. They both take spoonfuls of the pickled veggies to soak in the soup before adding it to their noodles. The soup turns red.
I try mine plain first, then add a teeny bit of the pickled veggies. It was too small of a sample size, so I added more. My bravery bites me in the ass as it is not way too hot, even after it was soaked in the soup (I am not as good as them, by far when it comes to eating spicy foods). I power through either way, but I am sucking air through my teeth trying not to die. There is no plain broth available to drink as they are all filled with pickled veggies. I take a piece of tendon and let it sit on my tongue, cooling it down.
I stare across the street, memorizing the tree and the school. I plan on coming back.
Ten years later, I picked a hostel which is actually a room in someone's apartment right next to 85 Sky Tower. I have my boyfriend in tow. He needs to try these beef noodles. I tell him about my story with my uncles. I'm not sure if he believes me about the pickled veggies. I am prone to exaggeration when I truly believe in something; I am a writer after all. Everything is the same as it was, thankfully, so I am able to find it easily. I am excited to share this with him.
We sit inside and I order up some things: beef noodles, tendon, and some sauteed veggies for some balance. It's better than I remembered. The beef of the broth so thick and fragrant, the beef tender and just slightly chewy. The veggies are sauteed perfectly. They have that fresh veggie crunch but are all young so they are also tender (I hate how in the States it's usually the old stalks so it's harder to eat). This is one of my happy places, and I eat everything.
Beef noodle soup
Sliced tendon
Pickled veggies to add to your beef noodle soup - this time I didn't dilute it in a separate bowl of soup, I just added maybe a fifth of that spoonful in and it was hot and spicy and perfect.
Sauteed empty heart veggies
Address:
興中二路83號
Lingya District
Kaohsiung City
Taiwan, 802
